Overview

Extensively researched and beautifully photographed, Izakaya is an inspiring, enjoyable tour into this cornerstone of Japanese food culture. In addition there are more than 60 authentic recipes straight from the chefs of some of Japan’s best izakayas, making this book a must-have for anyone interested in Japanese cuisine. More than a cookbook or a guidebook, Izakaya is the next best thing to being there.

Full review

Structure of the book

The book features eight different izakayas, each with its own section that begins with an essay that reads very much like a newspaper write-up: Robinson may describe the experience walking in the pub, the reputation of the pub, a brief history of the pub and the chef, the chef’s philosophy about food and drink, the flow of the kitchen, and descriptions of the food. This is followed by about 9 recipes from the izakaya itself, written by the chef and each accompanied by a full-color photograph. There are also features on the history of izakayas, Japanese aromatics, izakaya drinking, and interspersed among the chapters there are brief sections about topics like seasonal ingredients, table manners, dashi, rice, and mizugi beer campaign girls. At the end of the book, there is a glossary and a few helpful tips on how to “talk izakaya.”

About the author

Mark Robinson is a journalist who has written on Japanese food and culture for publications such as the Financial Times and The Times (UK). He was born in Tokyo and though he was raised in Sydney, he returned to Japan in 1988 and has remained there since.

How is this book interesting/special/new/useful?

The dust jacket front flap says that Izakaya is the first publication in English to delve into every aspect of the izakaya, a unique and vital cornerstone of Japanese food culture. However, after reading the book, a second book would have difficulty providing insight additional to Robinson’s– he paints such a vivid picture that the only way to better get an idea of what the izakaya experience is like is probably to go to one. From the physical description of the pub, to the demeanor of the chefs, and even the kind of company one can expect in each izakaya, Robinson captures all the details. Robinson chose the eight izakayas featured for their quality, ambience, and variety, and the unique charms of each izakaya shines through in the text.

The recipes were, through interviews and interactions, written by the head chefs of the izakayas themselves, even though they typically don’t use measurements in an izakaya kitchen. Robinsons assures us that they can be faithfully recreated (the recipes appear to be very authentic, and are in imperial and metric measurements). The recipes are for the most part no-fuss recipes (no need to train for decades) with few ingredients, but the emphasis is on quality and creativity. The range from the familiar (sweet corn kakiage tempura, soy-flavored spare ribs, simmered kamo eggplant with pork loin, sliced duck breast with ponzu sauce, fried udon, summer scallop salad) to more exotic offerings (scrambled eggs with sea urchin, “motsu” beef intestine stew, shark fin aspic). There is inspiration to be found here not only for those who wish to travel in Japan or set up a pub of their own, but also for those who are adventurous enough to try a different kind of entertaining at home.

I have to admit that though the title caught my eye (after I had enjoyed an izakaya experience of my own recently), it was the photographs of Masashi Kuma (nominated previously for a James Beard award for his work in Kaiseki) that had me hooked. The shots of the food and the izakayas are warm and inviting, and represent the izakaya culture remarkably.

What problems/flaws are there?

Though the write-ups of the izakayas are short, there are some details that might seem already too mundane for some readers. For example, Robinson shares a short exchange between a few patrons about wearing hats, which isn’t really interesting, though it does help establish the laid-back atmosphere of the izakaya a little. Similarly, a few short sections or blurbs may not be very useful or interesting (depictions of izakayas in comics or anime, for example) to some, though they do add to the story of the izakaya’s place in popular culture. In rare moments the prose can get a tad precious. Throughout the text you’ll get plenty of helpful tips on how to maximize your izakaya experience, though the penultimate section on “talking izakaya,” fun as it is, isn’t a suitable replacement for the most basic of Japanese language lessons.

Who might enjoy/use this book most?

The book delivers on its promise to provide a peek into this Japanese dining experience, but anyone interested in Japanese cuisine or culture in general would enjoy reading Izakaya.